Unimog Club UK
General Topics Forums => Unimog build threads => Topic started by: Will on September 19, 2014, 10:29:39 pm
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I love the indicator conversion, the LED side light really caps it off :) .
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Looking again I realise that 80/90 is too thick for the gearbox but the farm oil I put in the engine is SAE30 and GL4 so that will do.
These are the new internals I made for the sidelights.
(http://i72.photobucket.com/albums/i177/Mudmagnet/IMAG1446.jpg)
And at home keeping the curtains twitching.
(http://i72.photobucket.com/albums/i177/Mudmagnet/IMAG1474.jpg)
Will.
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Well I made it home. Done probably 35 miles in it. The front axle has blown the seals from the portal unit to the swivel so I have filled it with power Harrow grease for now. Are these a big job to do? I presume you split it at the kingpins?
Maxed out seems to be 52 mph gps speed ~80k on the tacho. I'll get some pictures later.
Will.
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I used EP80/90 GL5 it's hard to say as I flushed it through as I was doing it. I would guess I used about 11 litres to do the rear axle and hubs and the front axle including flushing. I did notice my axle plugs are well rounded so that's another thing to add to the list unless Landrover ones fit.
I have some farm oil 10/30 for the engine and will get some EP80/90 GL4 for the gearbox. I'm using vapormatic oils as it's what I can get hold of.
With any luck I can take it for a trundle on Saturday.
Will.
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Changing the various oils is something i need to do also. Out of interest how much oil did it take to fill the rear axle and did you use the same oil as the engine uses.
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It's something I do need Nick however times are hard at the moment, I have the operating manual which is invaluable but I could do with the electronic copy for the workshop. Fitted the new water pump last night and changed rear axle oils. It's slowly getting there...
Will.
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Judging by the size of the restoration you are undertaking you could do with getting yourself a workshop manual Will
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Wiring diagram for will. Hope this makes more sense to you than it does to me :D
EDIT REASON: Asked by nickrussel to remove attachments due to copyright
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After some more delving it appears the ign barrel has had some tampering, there are two poles that are live on one turn, both sidelights and headlights are wired to these, then a blue wire was on the sencond click live, this appears to be linked into the charge light in the instrument cluster. Waterpump should arrive tommoro fingers crossed.
Does anyone have an electronic copy of the wiring diagram?
Will.
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Ignition key in : nothing
one click plus starter button : engine starts
2 clicks: side lights
3 clicks plus gentle push in : head lights
That's how the sequence should be :)
The fact that you can start yours with just the key slipped in makes me wonder if it's a 411 or lucas barrel?
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Just a quick pic.
[img]http://i72.photobucket.com/albums/i177/Mudmagnet/imagejpg1-1.jpg[/url]
Will.
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I'm a little confused by the ign sequence.
I get:
Ign key pushed in- starter button works
Turned one click side lights and headlights
Turned second click- red alternator light illuminates.
Surely this isn't correct? When should the sidelights in the headlights and on the wings illuminate? ( I have power to them but only seems to be when the headlights are illuminated.)
Will.
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Makes sense. My palm couplings do hiss very slightly sometimes. I'll get the soapy water out and try to pinpoint the issue so I can fix it.
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Yes brake fluid , tank in balance is not shown in early mogs but your trailer tank will be the last one to fill that's why your light is a bit slow to go off, you will have a leak on the trailer side so drops overnight and is slow building up, all pretty normal.
Moose
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When you say fluid is low do you mean brake fluid? Or is it a combined light for oil too? Reason I ask is that I've found mine stays on for a good few seconds, maybe even half a minute after starting. Tank pressure is right up at 7.5 bar usually.
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The central light comes on when air presure is low fluid is low or there is an in balance between the two tanks ! As your trailer brakes are not connected :)
Moose
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A little more progress has been made.
Doghouse has new rubber clips, fuel tank steam cleaned and painted, halfway to new fuel lines, rear lights sorted and some other small jobs done, still waiting for my water pump to arrive.
After probing round the electrics getting the lights working my air brake warning light is now illuminated constantly even with the system up to pressure, any ideas? Also when the key switch is turned to position three the charge light on the dash illuminates surely this isn't right?
Cheers, Will.
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Has it got a linkage? I've got a huge tow hitch assembly that came off of mine, could save you some work. It's a big pin hitch but has a ball adaptor on it. I can take some photos if you're interested? It fits to the 3 point mounting holes.
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No primary use, only bought it dos I've always fancied one and I could. I do however have lots of people who could use me and a mog to shift farm stuff. I would also like to tow my ifor hence the requirement for a low hitch height.
In time I will most likely build myself a nice ~10T twin axle trailer on mini super singles. But for now I can borrow a wide variety of farm trailers obviously being aware of the nose weight.
Operating manual arrived today, what a fantastic read, couldn't ask for anymore information!
I will probably just try and get a height ajustable continental hitch that will get me somewhere near for trailers, and look to fabricate a linkage come PUH later on.
Will.
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Will what are you goo a use it for ? Pick up hitch is ok if you want to move an old farm trailer but you don't want to move anything to big as you'll soon overload the back axle Unimogs are best suited to balanced trailers with a max nose weght of one toone on the rockinger hitch. It's my opinion that pick up hitches are old hat nowadays they where when from the fifties when we were running around in two wheel drive tractors and we needed tractio. On something that can do 40/50 mph you really need balanced trailer with air brakes.
There a reason pickup hitches are not legal in Europe at high speed, saying that pickup hitches at speed are legal in UK towing of the axle is possible and indeed auto guide made one that was approved.
Again will whats your primary use ?
Moose
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Ah yes makes sense, no bolts at all in the old ones so nothing to go off, I have some washers off a 50 series deere cab mounts that will do the job nicely.
I will try and retrieve the tag with part number, they came off a mate who had them lying around for £20.
Ordered a water pump through Kramp, operators manual from Vos and some dog house rubbers and a switch top from South cave. (Switch top 3.25 vs 38 for a complete unit from vos) I made some light brackets off the chassis last night and mocked up some mud gaurds using tractor front fenders.
South cave were kind enough to give me a brief rundown of its factory build, DOKA, trailer air brakes, suffix G(?) 6 speed box and rockinger style hitch, sadly missing and short tray.
Are the rear of the chassis rails normally cut off square? Mine have a slight tapered cut upwards at the rear and the holes have been opened up gassing some bolts off, I will fill the holes but do I need to rebuild the chassis rails also? Do any of the attachments need the chassis after the rear X member?
Finally (for now haha) i have been looking at how to make a PUH for it, I notice the factory linkage mounts to the axle but if towing a trailer on a linkage based PUH does it not create a massive jacking effect on the overrun? And these forces won't be good for where the torque tube meets the gearbox will they? I notice VOS do a PUH that just looks like a frame to bolt to the chassis, is this the case? If so I don't fancy having a plough on the rear all the time.
Will. Wanders off to ponder....
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Now then Will if the cab mounts are anything like the genuine thing and looking at the pictures you must put the large washer on or one day the cab bolt will pull through the rubber. the washer is around 75mm and about 4mm thick. Having said that they look like a good alternative, how much are they?
Moose
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Cheers, I thought they must be something in the cab going by the copper coil to accomodate movement.
I'll be ordering an operaters manual this week when I know what other items I need. I managed to buy an edition B parts catalogue off ebay.de by accident earlier but hopefully that will help me out.
Any pics of air systems and even back body's/ rear light brackets would be appreciated.
Will.
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Regarding the extra pipes on the fuel tank, as moose said, the cab is a cut down crew cab, all the crew cabs I`ve seen have had a extra heater/block heater running off a night heater type set up under the rear bench seat, my guess would be thats what the extra pipes where for.
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I'll be doing a bit on mine this week hopefully and have trailer air. I'll take a few pictures for you if I get a chance, although I have no idea what I'm looking at. I'm pretty sure there's a pipe diagram in the owners manual - it's well worth getting for what it costs
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Starting to feel like I'm making progress now.
Found some Lamborghini cab mounts that will do the job, got one side done just the other to do.
(http://i72.photobucket.com/albums/i177/Mudmagnet/IMAG1328.jpg) (http://s72.photobucket.com/user/Mudmagnet/media/IMAG1328.jpg.html)
Re piped the two air switches and 4wd and difflocks appear to work well so I'll leave them on air. However the top of switch seems to be missing a few teeth, can you buy this individualy?
Trying to push the pipe onto the barbed tails is always a struggle I found a heat gun worked best after the cup of boiling water failed me, anyone any other bright ideas?
Brian/moose the trailer air valve switch thingy, any ideas what it's actually for? It made the air chamber in the chassis do its tsh tsh ( technical term) thing but that seemed all its only a mom valve no detent.
I have removed a load of extra wiring and had the rear wheels off to lubricate the calipers and make sure the wheel nuts aren't seized.
I also welded up the gouges in the chassis where the tree spade had been gassed off.
The fuel tank has the engine feed and returns bolted into it however there are two more pipes coming out and going no where, are these the originals or aftermarket? ( night heater or similar?)
Extra pipes:
(http://i72.photobucket.com/albums/i177/Mudmagnet/IMAG1331.jpg) (http://s72.photobucket.com/user/Mudmagnet/media/IMAG1331.jpg.html)
Finally does anyone have trailer air brakes and would be willing to take a picture of where their air lines from the trailer couplers connect to the various valves in the chassis? I have two blanking caps on the air chamber and another on a little 3 port valve at the other side of the air valves, I also have this knackered pipe that runs up to the master cylinder area.
(http://i72.photobucket.com/albums/i177/Mudmagnet/IMAG1333.jpg) (http://s72.photobucket.com/user/Mudmagnet/media/IMAG1333.jpg.html)
Hoping to have cab mounts, air system and diesel system finished this week, then I can start on a back body. Hopefully found a waterpump through kramp so there's that to fit and some new tie downs for the bonnet.
Will.
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Ref the body, 6`6" wide is about right, length wise its up to you for your use, or what looks right, if making your own body try to mount it using a 3 point mounting to allow chassis flex, or get hold of a x frame and build off that.
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well worth getting the operators book, it tells you loads of useful stuff, and saves you looking for answers online, it even has a reference to the fan belt lengths for instance, as well as where to put your gearbox when using the PTO and stationary.
Enjoy the mog, and you'll find everything is pretty easy. I don't have a workshop manual, I just take advise from Vos, Southcave and AC Price and get the spanners out and a cuppa.
As for rubber cab mounts they will be a Trelleborg style mount, their is a distributor in the UK if you ring up trelleborg they will tell you who sells them for them. Only thing is you will have to guess the stiffness, so go genuine if I were you.
Ed
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Thanks for the replies, I've been in touch with atkinson vos, ac price and South cave today.
Water pumps seem to vary from £150-200. I have some fuel and air pipe on the way so hopefully I can get those systems up and running.
Is there much in the aftermarket parts department?The cab mounts are looking at £66 each wich is just two much for some bits of rubber. I'll make my own I think.
I have been reading about the four speed and splitter gearbox I think that's what confused me, also my mate has two 800 tracs both with splitter.
Yes the cab is a cut down DOKA? Double cab I wonder if by all the extra wiring, light brackets colour scheme etc it was used on the railway? The cab doesn't concern me at the moment, I will be getting the rest of the mog up and running and then look at what to do with the cab. I'm about 6'3" so the king cab appeals to me!
Atkinson vos do an operaters book for £40, do any of you have one of these and if so are they a worthwhile investment?
I have spent this evening repairing some of the chassis where the tree spade was gassed off. I just need to repair the very rear of the chassis.
Finally what size back body do people fit? after a rough measure up Im thinking along the lines of 6'6" by 8-9' long, does this sound daft?
Will.
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Hi,
You have what I assume is an ex rienbrau (if that's spelt correctly) Unimog, although the company is no longer called this, but i cant remember what they're called now. It was origionally a crew cab, hence the butchery that has been done, with some effort you can tidy this up, but you might be better trying to find a good used cab :)
As for your questions:
PTO
This is just a standard 540 PTO :)
The water pump is knackered, eBay and vos put them from £150-200 does anyone do a rebuild kit or has anyone replaced the bearings?
This is a reasonable price if genuine :)
Where is the best place to get a workshop manual and how much are we looking at?
Keep scouring ebay, or contact some dealers :)
Filters, does anyone have a list of filters and cross references?
I don't have any cross references, but many of the filters are MANN
Diesel pipes, I have two returns, leak offs coming back to the NST of the diesel tank, these t into each other here before dropping through a banjo into the tank, do they need to meet this far back or can the join at the engine and run one pipe back? I also have a sedimenter in the feed pipe is this standard?
Yes you can t these next to the engine, one is a bleed off for the injectors.
This is a standard filter, remove it, clean it, and if necessary replace :)
Cab mounts (rubbers) these are kaput and combined with a religious cab it bangs on the deisel tank, are they a fortune, available or shall I make my own?
Not sure, best thing to do is contact dealers
Air pipes, the rear body was a tree spade and gassed off melting some air pipes in the process, is there a few common or standard sizes used or do they all differ? The small 6mm pipe looks very thick walled is this just old eighties factory pipe and times have moved on to the newer thin wall stuff?
The sizes vary, most common is 8mm on most 406's according to moose. we also assume that the 6mm is just old technology.
Headlights, they look like standard 7". Is his so? I'll knock some out the Landy if so.
Unimogs have the side lights mounted in the bowl, strip the light apart to see how they work, that's the main difference.
I have three levers and two air switches in the cab, no splitter? Is this normal?
one of the air switches could be an air brake tester according to moose.
the others are forward/reverse, PTO, main gear lever, and 2x2/4x4/difflock
You won't have a splitter as you don't have the cascade box, follow this link :)
http://www.unimogclubuk.com/tutorials/u800u900u1100-gear-levers/
Is this the 4wd linkage? Can I return it back to a lever rated than pneumatic operation? Anyone have pics of the linkage or an old lever?
Yes it is, and yes you can :) I'll get some pics as soon as i can of the linkage, they'll be of the early system, which uses notches to lock the lever in place, meaning you have to knock the lever down.
I want to splice a pcl coupling into the air tank so at first I can pressure it up to check for leaks without the engine running and then swap to air tyres ect, where is the best place to do this? I was thinking into the tank but will damage the unloaded or evaporater?
I don't know :)
Just exactly what oil does the gearbox and axles/hubs take? I'm guessing EP90?
Already been answered, but you can also use genuine merc semi-synthetic oil in the hubs and diffs :)
Cheers, Brian
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Atkinson vos sell full mechanical manuals for £190
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Lordy... that's some list!
Well I can make a start to helping with the oils question. The gearbox needs an older GL4 type oil as new spec EP/hypoid oils can attack the yellow metals used in some of the parts. So standard EP90 that you would buy for a modern vehicle is bad news. You want SAE 80, 80w90 or 85w90 gear oil. The axles and hubs on the other hand are fine with EP90, or if it's working hard I've heard Syntrans mentioned. That gives better protection the the hubs, which are expensive to fix!
As for the other questions... Pass!
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Headlights, they look like standard 7". Is his so? I'll knock some out the Landy if so.
I have three levers and two air switches in the cab, no splitter? Is this normal?
Is this the 4wd linkage? Can I return it back to a lever rated than pneumatic operation? Anyone have pics of the linkage or an old lever?
(http://i72.photobucket.com/albums/i177/Mudmagnet/imagejpg3.jpg) (http://s72.photobucket.com/user/Mudmagnet/media/imagejpg3.jpg.html)
(http://i72.photobucket.com/albums/i177/Mudmagnet/imagejpg2.jpg) (http://s72.photobucket.com/user/Mudmagnet/media/imagejpg2.jpg.html)
Where is the best place for spares?
I want to splice a pcl coupling into the air tank so at first I can pressure it up to check for leaks without the engine running and then swap to air tyres ect, where is the best place to do this? I was thinking into the tank but will damage the unloaded or evaporater?
Just exactly what oil does the gearbox and axles/hubs take? I'm guessing EP90?
I'm sure I've forgotten some things but that's a start......
Will.
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This is my latest money pit and a foray into the world of mog.
(http://i72.photobucket.com/albums/i177/Mudmagnet/imagejpg4.jpg) (http://s72.photobucket.com/user/Mudmagnet/media/imagejpg4.jpg.html)
(http://i72.photobucket.com/albums/i177/Mudmagnet/imagejpg5.jpg) (http://s72.photobucket.com/user/Mudmagnet/media/imagejpg5.jpg.html)
I have a load of questions so here goes!
This is the PTO
(http://i72.photobucket.com/albums/i177/Mudmagnet/imagejpg1.jpg) (http://s72.photobucket.com/user/Mudmagnet/media/imagejpg1.jpg.html)
The water pump is knackered, eBay and vos put them from £150-200 does anyone do a rebuild kit or has anyone replaced the bearings?
Where is the best place to get a workshop manual and how much are we looking at?
Filters, does anyone have a list of filters and cross references?
Diesel pipes, I have two returns, leak offs coming back to the NST of the diesel tank, these t into each other here before dropping through a banjo into the tank, do they need to meet this far back or can the join at the engine and run one pipe back? I also have a sedimenter in the feed pipe is this standard?
Cab mounts (rubbers) these are kaput and combined with a religious cab it bangs on the deisel tank, are they a fortune, available or shall I make my own?
Air pipes, the rear body was a tree spade and gassed off melting some air pipes in the process, is there a few common or standard sizes used or do they all differ? The small 6mm pipe looks very thick walled is this just old eighties factory pipe and times have moved on to the newer thin wall stuff?
I'll post again before I lose all this.....