Unimog Club UK
General Topics Forums => Unimog build threads => Topic started by: Clever Hans on May 18, 2016, 09:26:55 pm
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Also, WD40 is water based so will make the rust worse in the long run.... it's fine as a penetrating oil though to free up rusted nuts/bolts, just not long term.
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wD40 is not ideal you need to be separating with Dinitrol. WD40 can destroy rubbers and plastic over time.
Moose
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I know this is an old topic...but I,m assuming this is a working Mog ? hence HGV test and the exhaust brake....my U1300L was registered in UK as a tractor, so no test.....I was lucky bought it at 44,000kms on the clock almost new......still only 47,000kms and no rust thereabouts...every year I get my WD 40 can and spray all around under the mats......and into any holes...8 years all still as it was.
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Good news - after learning to use an angle grinder (fun!), how to pop rivet (ditto), and discovering the joys of Sikaflex (it's almost all gone off my skin now after two weeks), the repair job we did was good enough that the DVSA tester guy didn't even mention it, let alone say there was a problem! And we hadn't covered it up or anything, it was all right there to be seen.
Very happy with that result!
:D :D :D
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You can buy the floor pans and it would take about three days to fit these the welding is not the hard part in your case as you need the cab up and your cab is very big and will take some lifting.
My advise put the mats back in and take her for the test I doughy they will find that from what i can see in the pictures temperelly pot rivet some plates for the mot then have it done properly.
Moose
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At least it seems not to have really got to the support members :) They are dusty with rust powder from the surrounding mayhem but as yet not nibbled themselves.
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I can confirm you own a unimog!!
That's a realy pity but saying that it should be a straight forward fix for a local garage. Unless you fancy learning how to weld on the job
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Well, we were just working away today, minding our own business, and we drilled out the rivets holding the driver's door sill trim in place so we could get at the "little bit of rust" on the sill.
The sill rust was fine, just a teeny hole that will sand down just fine and get Kurust-ed and then filled and painted.
However, on curiously lifting the stuck-down floor lino, a horrible landscape of craters, flakes and holes was revealed! The Rust Monster has eaten our cab floor!
(http://i1055.photobucket.com/albums/s504/WDAY/photo%202-30_zps3up3hfma.jpg) (http://s1055.photobucket.com/user/WDAY/media/photo%202-30_zps3up3hfma.jpg.html)
(http://i1055.photobucket.com/albums/s504/WDAY/photo%201-28_zpsdmgubzzy.jpg) (http://s1055.photobucket.com/user/WDAY/media/photo%201-28_zpsdmgubzzy.jpg.html)
(http://i1055.photobucket.com/albums/s504/WDAY/photo%201-30_zpsudst3btk.jpg) (http://s1055.photobucket.com/user/WDAY/media/photo%201-30_zpsudst3btk.jpg.html)
(http://i1055.photobucket.com/albums/s504/WDAY/photo%204-22_zpsrxvqwtey.jpg) (http://s1055.photobucket.com/user/WDAY/media/photo%204-22_zpsrxvqwtey.jpg.html)
Halp!
Seriously... neither of us weld and we're heading for a First HGV test in the next couple of weeks. Advice? Aid?
:'(
Rob & Sue