Unimog Club UK

This is my latest money pit and a foray into the world of mog.






I have a load of questions so here goes!

This is the PTO



The water pump is knackered, eBay and vos put them from £150-200 does anyone do a rebuild kit or has anyone replaced the bearings?

Where is the best place to get a workshop manual and how much are we looking at?

Filters, does anyone have a list of filters and cross references?

Diesel pipes, I have two returns, leak offs coming back to the NST of the diesel tank, these t into each other here before dropping through a banjo into the tank, do they need to meet this far back or can the join at the engine and run one pipe back? I also have a sedimenter in the feed pipe is this standard?

Cab mounts (rubbers) these are kaput and combined with a religious cab it bangs on the deisel tank, are they a fortune, available or shall I make my own?

Air pipes, the rear body was a tree spade and gassed off melting some air pipes in the process, is there a few common or standard sizes used or do they all differ? The small 6mm pipe looks very thick walled is this just old eighties factory pipe and times have moved on to the newer thin wall stuff?

I'll post again before I lose all this.....

Lordy... that's some list!

Well I can make a start to helping with the oils question. The gearbox needs an older GL4 type oil as new spec EP/hypoid oils can attack the yellow metals used in some of the parts. So standard EP90 that you would buy for a modern vehicle is bad news. You want SAE 80, 80w90 or 85w90 gear oil. The axles and hubs on the other hand are fine with EP90, or if it's working hard I've heard Syntrans mentioned. That gives better protection the the hubs, which are expensive to fix!

As for the other questions... Pass!

Hi,

You have what I assume is an ex rienbrau (if that's spelt correctly) Unimog, although the company is no longer called this, but i cant remember what they're called now. It was origionally a crew cab, hence the butchery that has been done, with some effort you can tidy this up, but you might be better trying to find a good used cab

As for your questions:

PTO
This is just a standard 540 PTO

The water pump is knackered, eBay and vos put them from £150-200 does anyone do a rebuild kit or has anyone replaced the bearings?

This is a reasonable price if genuine

Where is the best place to get a workshop manual and how much are we looking at?
Keep scouring ebay, or contact some dealers

Filters, does anyone have a list of filters and cross references?
I don't have any cross references, but many of the filters are MANN

Diesel pipes, I have two returns, leak offs coming back to the NST of the diesel tank, these t into each other here before dropping through a banjo into the tank, do they need to meet this far back or can the join at the engine and run one pipe back? I also have a sedimenter in the feed pipe is this standard?
Yes you can t these next to the engine, one is a bleed off for the injectors.
This is a standard filter, remove it, clean it, and if necessary replace

Cab mounts (rubbers) these are kaput and combined with a religious cab it bangs on the deisel tank, are they a fortune, available or shall I make my own?
Not sure, best thing to do is contact dealers

Air pipes, the rear body was a tree spade and gassed off melting some air pipes in the process, is there a few common or standard sizes used or do they all differ? The small 6mm pipe looks very thick walled is this just old eighties factory pipe and times have moved on to the newer thin wall stuff?
The sizes vary, most common is 8mm on most 406's according to moose. we also assume that the 6mm is just old technology.

Headlights, they look like standard 7". Is his so? I'll knock some out the Landy if so.

Unimogs have the side lights mounted in the bowl, strip the light apart to see how they work, that's the main difference.

I have three levers and two air switches in the cab, no splitter? Is this normal?
one of the air switches could be an air brake tester according to moose.
the others are forward/reverse, PTO, main gear lever, and 2x2/4x4/difflock
You won't have a splitter as you don't have the cascade box, follow this link
http://www.unimogclubuk.com/tutorials/u800u900u1100-gear-levers/

Is this the 4wd linkage? Can I return it back to a lever rated than pneumatic operation? Anyone have pics of the linkage or an old lever?
Yes it is, and yes you can I'll get some pics as soon as i can of the linkage, they'll be of the early system, which uses notches to lock the lever in place, meaning you have to knock the lever down.

I want to splice a pcl coupling into the air tank so at first I can pressure it up to check for leaks without the engine running and then swap to air tyres ect, where is the best place to do this? I was thinking into the tank but will damage the unloaded or evaporater?

I don't know

Just exactly what oil does the gearbox and axles/hubs take? I'm guessing EP90?
Already been answered, but you can also use genuine merc semi-synthetic oil in the hubs and diffs

Cheers, Brian

well worth getting the operators book, it tells you loads of useful stuff, and saves you looking for answers online, it even has a reference to the fan belt lengths for instance, as well as where to put your gearbox when using the PTO and stationary.

Enjoy the mog, and you'll find everything is pretty easy. I don't have a workshop manual, I just take advise from Vos, Southcave and AC Price and get the spanners out and a cuppa.

As for rubber cab mounts they will be a Trelleborg style mount, their is a distributor in the UK if you ring up trelleborg they will tell you who sells them for them.  Only thing is you will have to guess the stiffness, so go genuine if I were you.

Ed

Starting to feel like I'm making progress now.

Found some Lamborghini cab mounts that will do the job, got one side done just the other to do.


Re piped the two air switches and 4wd and difflocks appear to work well so I'll leave them on air. However the top of switch seems to be missing a few teeth, can you buy this individualy?
Trying to push the pipe onto the barbed tails is always a struggle I found a heat gun worked best after the cup of boiling water failed me, anyone any other bright ideas?

Brian/moose the trailer air valve switch thingy, any ideas what it's actually for? It made the air chamber in the chassis do its tsh tsh ( technical term) thing but that seemed all its only a mom valve no detent.

I have removed a load of extra wiring and had the rear wheels off to lubricate the calipers and make sure the wheel nuts aren't seized.

I also welded up the gouges in the chassis where the tree spade had been gassed off.

The fuel tank has the engine feed and returns bolted into it however there are two more pipes coming out and going no where, are these the originals or aftermarket? ( night heater or similar?)
Extra pipes:


Finally does anyone have trailer air brakes and would be willing to take a picture of where their air lines from the trailer couplers connect to the various valves in the chassis? I have two blanking caps on the air chamber and another on a little 3 port valve at the other side of the air valves, I also have this knackered pipe that runs up to the master cylinder area.


Hoping to have cab mounts, air system and diesel system finished this week, then I can start on a back body. Hopefully found a waterpump through kramp so there's that to fit and some new tie downs for the bonnet.

Will.

Regarding the extra pipes on the fuel tank, as moose said, the cab is a cut down crew cab, all the crew cabs I`ve seen have had a extra heater/block heater running off a night heater type set up under the rear bench seat, my guess would be thats what the extra pipes where for.

Now then Will if the cab mounts are anything like the genuine thing and looking at the pictures you must put the large washer on or one day the cab bolt will pull through the rubber. the washer is around 75mm and about 4mm thick. Having said that they look like a good alternative, how much are they?
Moose

Will what are you goo a use it for ? Pick up hitch is ok if you want to move an old farm trailer but you don't want to move anything to big as you'll soon overload the back axle Unimogs are best suited to balanced trailers with a max nose weght of one toone on the rockinger hitch. It's my opinion that pick up hitches are old hat nowadays they where when from the fifties when we were running around in two wheel drive tractors and we needed tractio. On something that can do 40/50 mph you really need balanced trailer with air brakes.
There a reason pickup hitches are not legal in Europe at high speed, saying that pickup hitches at speed are legal in UK towing of the axle is possible and indeed auto guide made one that was approved.
Again will whats your primary use ?
Moose