Unimog Club UK

The u900 ...Yeah hubs don't have much oil so if the seal has gone then replace or keep topping up, cascade gear boxes DON'T crunch and the splitter box needs to work on cascade boxes. I've heard electrics can be trouble some at times (brian?)

When I finally buy one I will take that advice. £400, compared to what it could cost if something obvious was to go wrong, is a bargain! Will he be driving down in the black mog so I can have a play for comparison?

I think my perfect mog at the moment would be a U900 with front and rear linkage and pto's - preferably 2 speed for running low power need kit at tickover. Front linkage I could do without but it needs to be a 3 way tipper. I'd need a hydraulic feed to both ends to run a log splitter.

I've got a picture in my head of a large mowing deck on the front end that could raise up against the truck so it doesn't stick out too far.  I don't know why but a deck on the front seems like it would be easier and quicker to use than a rear mounted one? Turning around trees etc would be much easier that way I think? We have a lot of horse types around here with small paddocks, it could be a good earner if I could mow the thistles for them.

go with a schmidt plate everytime, weight's held further into the mog, and you can get or make a linkage adapter kit.
I am wanting to do a list, there's just a lot to put and im really busy at the mo! 

have you thought about the 6 wheeler on ebay at the moment?

I saw the pictures of the damaged hub and it seems nothing to big, and it's a good price for something to fix up.  The guy has loads of photos he can send to you and it's been for sale for about a year as I asked last year all about it but I couldn't justify another as the trailer was more of a priority.

Ed

Finding a mower with Schmidt mountings is hard work, unless you go for something like a ducker or Mulag fme mower, then you're looking at lots of pennies you could mod a mower to fit Schmidt mountings, the only difficult thing would be pto angles as the pto joints with a Schmidt mounting are very close together, hydraulic would be the answer.

As for mounting, wind up or hydraulic legs very easy once you do it once or twice

6x6 thing is cool, not sure if its an original factory job looking at it tbh. If not its an unbelievably tidy job. Shame if they drilled and extended the chassis though :/

gonna have to do a quick list for now, feeling dead guilty not replying.
the fact of the matter is that every mog is different and there are a wide veriety of things to look for, so im gonna add to this list as i go along, and then eventually make a designated thread.

so a couple of things to look for:

these are generally u900 things, but some of it can be passed onto other mogs

hub oils, undo the bung and check level, check colour also, dark/burnt oil NOT GOOD. if there is to much oil in the hub (above check level bung), top hub seal has gone, letting oil in the hub from the diff. if there is over much oil in the diff (above check level bung) gear box seal has gone letting oil go down the torque tube.
when you take it for a test drive check all the hubs when you stop, put the back of your hand against it, if hot after a few miles, somethings wrong. do this with the diffs as well.
on cascade gear boxs bounce up and down on the accelerator, if the cascade leaver looks like its gonna bounce out, or even DOES bounce out  stay back, major money to repair! 
check engine hours (front right of engine as youre sat in the cab) miles arent so important in a mog, its all about engine hours  above 7/8000 hours usually looking at a replacement engine/ rebuild, but we've seen them at 12000 before and theyre still going strong

regarding electrics, its normally just corrosion, stuff youd expect to see on an old truck.

i'll add more as i come across them

Brian