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Author Topic: New member from Cornwall U1000 1979  (Read 3474 times)

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Re: New member from Cornwall U1000 1979
« Reply #15 on: March 01, 2014, 09:55:14 pm »
The adjuster screw, is it just turning, not doing anything? or seized?
If it`s just turning, you might be lucky and the piston has seized slightly, and as you wound the adjuster back the mechanism inside the piston that adjusts it  has come unclipped. It is held inside the piston with a snap ring, you need to remove the piston, and the bit that snaps inside it, press the adjuster back inside the piston, and fit it back into the caliper, carefully winding the adjuster back as you push the piston back.
The allen key part of the adjuster is held in place with a circlip and a washer, if you remove them and turn the allen key to undo? (from memory) the adjuster should unwind its self out on the helix gear, if you want to check condition of the gear.
For changing the pads the screw does not need to be removed, I find easing the piston back as winding it back on the adjuster helps.

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Re: New member from Cornwall U1000 1979
« Reply #16 on: March 05, 2014, 12:23:47 pm »
I like that saw! Is it expensive to buy/run?
I like that saw! Is it expensive to buy/run?

Its about 3k plus the vat plus hoses plus the cutting consumables so its not that cheap but it works very well on standard reinforced concrete. its at the top end of its limits with what im doing and as such has its limitations. On the whole its a nice piece of kit. 

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Re: New member from Cornwall U1000 1979
« Reply #17 on: March 05, 2014, 12:44:57 pm »
The adjuster screw, is it just turning, not doing anything? or seized?
If it`s just turning, you might be lucky and the piston has seized slightly, and as you wound the adjuster back the mechanism inside the piston that adjusts it  has come unclipped. It is held inside the piston with a snap ring, you need to remove the piston, and the bit that snaps inside it, press the adjuster back inside the piston, and fit it back into the caliper, carefully winding the adjuster back as you push the piston back.
The allen key part of the adjuster is held in place with a circlip and a washer, if you remove them and turn the allen key to undo? (from memory) the adjuster should unwind its self out on the helix gear, if you want to check condition of the gear.
For changing the pads the screw does not need to be removed, I find easing the piston back as winding it back on the adjuster helps.

Thanks for the reply.
The  adjuster screw doesn't move at all.... :(
The hole is rounded out slightly so I'm getting a replacement kit sent out at the same time as my new clutch..... Starting to feel like Triggers broom at the moment....
If i can rotate and remove the screw can i just insert the new screw or is it advisable to just dismantle the caliper, remove the piston and check the mechanism is working correctly anyway?
I ask this because the inside brake pad is significantly more worn than the outer.
Cheers j