Author Topic: Mogs heavy steering (Read 3170 times)

Wolf · « **on:** May 17, 2016, 06:07:49 pm »

Hello everybody!
New to this. I Have a 437 /1700. She's very heavy on the steering especially in tight spots when trying to reverse a trailer.
I wonder has anyone heard of a heavy duty steering box for these. I'm sure I read about it some years ago. If you can help, I'd love to hear from you

moose · « **Reply #1 on:** May 17, 2016, 10:07:53 pm »

Hi it won't be the box it'll be the pump, if it's better when she's cold that's a fair sign, only way to tell for sure is presure test it. also jack front end up and try when she's of the ground should be as light as even when tired if it's heavy there's a fault somewhere ales King pins box etc etc.
Moose

Wolf · « **Reply #2 on:** May 18, 2016, 10:23:25 am »

Thanks moose.
I'll give that a try. Oh! by the way keep an eye out there
could be a wolf tracking you. Lol

Wolf · « **Reply #3 on:** May 20, 2016, 10:22:05 pm »

To introduce myself properly
My name is Ger De Paor. I learned of this club whilst browsing looking of anything I could find on privately owned Unimogs. With the intention of maybe getting some contacts or help with my restoration.
First off, I want to thank you on accepting me into your club. I think the club is very interesting, and very informative and helpful.
Having worked my mog for the last 15 yrs in plant & Agri, it became necessary to take it off the road for some serious refurbishment. That's where I am now with it. It has been a serious mainstay all those years, towing heavy loads with very little trouble.
This week after I've finished with the new brake lines, I'm giving the chassis a special respray. It's called a rust prevention and primer all in one. I only had to pressure wash it about 7 or 8 times. Under all that grime, she's in great condition.
I'm no good with pics, I have them in old phones and camera's everywhere. Promise you I will try to salvage them, get some help to put them up. I know I have one very interesting one, that ye'd like. Of her towing a rubber duck no lowloader.
Anyway cheers for now.
Wolf.

moose · « **Reply #4 on:** May 21, 2016, 07:15:17 am »

Welcome aboard Wolf were here to help where we can. If your chassis is in pretty good condition with just a few spots of rust you could have several options, you can do what you said that is paint and prime this works but is lengthy and if not done 100% can look bad later with paint peeling and rust creeping under and around parts mounted to the chassis.
My preference is steam clean wire brush any lose rust treat with rust converter that turns the rust black then spray liberally with dinitrol which also contains a rust converter this is what Mercedes used to spray the chassis with its a brilliant product and looks good and protects for years I'm also a fan of what Mercedes used to recommend before the world went environmental they used to recommend once a year power wash and spray 10w oil all over your chassis I've worked on old Unimogs that where done this way and they are a joy to work on.
This is all assuming you want a working truck not a show truck.
Saying that it still looks good, and to do one to show condition one should take everything of the chassis and paint individually as it did when it left the factory.
Moose

Wolf · « **Reply #5 on:** May 21, 2016, 10:41:05 pm »

Thank Moose. Your a mine of info, looked up that Dintrinol. Impressive May change tac. What I have for it is a product called Rust Bullet plus Black Top coat. Should have taken my time

Tell you what though. Have an interesting problem. When I took it off the road I just had, had a brake failure. All Fluid had gone from reservoir but external no leak. I've checked the master cylinder and diaphram, hasn't leaked at the handbrake unit on the back axle either. It's standing up a few months now. The discs are practically new, I haven't opened the calipers yet. I've serviced them many times, but this is a first.
Wolf.

Rabbit Recovery · « **Reply #6 on:** May 24, 2016, 08:06:08 pm »

Hi Wolf,

I am sure the man with the knowledge will be along soon (Moose) but to share my experience of fluid loss on the brakes of my U1000 the seals had perished and in truth the master cylinder itself and the fluid had leaked into the brake booster back along the actuating shaft. If the booster is of similar construction it will have a small metal pipe on it as an air vent near to where the master cylinder bolts on. Check that for signs of fluid. Sometimes they are extended with another pipe but I believe it should separate from the extension leaving a length of metal pipe about 40 to 50mm long.

Just a though

Wolf · « **Reply #7 on:** May 24, 2016, 10:20:49 pm »

Thanks, Rabbit Recovery.
I have the whole lot on the bench actuator /master cyl. No fluid loss there, I fitted a new master cyl a few yrs ago. Next, to disc calipers.
While we're talking about brakes. Do you ever have trouble priming / bleeding your front brakes. Why I ask over all the time I have this mog I don't think I've had full purchase on those front brakes. Maybe I should be pressurising this system.
Wolf.

Rabbit Recovery · « **Reply #8 on:** May 25, 2016, 07:48:14 pm »

I am no expert Wolf as I am still relatively new to Unimog ownership. If I recall correctly I pressure bled mine with a small unit that I have that is designed for cars and then bled it off the peddle with someone pumping. This was some years ago and it has always pulled up quick and square so I have not resisted yet. Not being at home I cannot check what the manuals say either.

Paul

Wolf · « **Reply #9 on:** May 25, 2016, 09:42:26 pm »

Hi Paul.
Ye pressurising the system seem right.

The information on these Mogs is pretty scant over here. I've relied on a couple of workshop manuals that seem to be translated poorly, not complete if you like. This club is the right idea, a pulling together of like minds. Moose seems a man that has had all these trials. Well thank you Rabbit, as they say here keep keep her Hummin
Wolf.

moose · « **Reply #10 on:** May 28, 2016, 12:21:52 pm »

Pressure bleeding is far better than pumping with the brake pedal what tends to happen when pumping you use the full stroke of the master cylinder not normally reached as this means you may damage the seals or there may be some crud and that can cause damage to the seals .also when pressure bleeding if the flow of fluid is not strong from one of the bleed nipples this can indicate a fault with a flexy pipe as these have a bad habit of furring up.
Re fluid loss I have seen before now a brake drag causing heat to build up and boil the fluid especially if the fluid is old and contains moisture the boiling expands the fluid and pushes the excess out of the resivoir and not been spotted by the operator.
Always change your brake fluids every two years for the health of your brake at least.
Make sure your brake pressure is set right this requires pressure gauges and test points near the master cylinder figures should be on a sticker on the drivers door.
Moose

Wolf · « **Reply #11 on:** May 31, 2016, 11:54:59 pm »

Thanks Moose, on that advise on priming the brakes. Makes a lot of sence. Won't be near it for while, with great weather.
Wolf.

Unimog Club UK

Author Topic: Mogs heavy steering (Read 3170 times)

Wolf

Mogs heavy steering

moose

Re: Mogs heavy steering

Wolf

Re: Mogs heavy steering

Wolf

Re: Mogs heavy steering

moose

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Wolf

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Rabbit Recovery

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Wolf

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Rabbit Recovery

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Wolf

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moose

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Wolf

Re: Mogs heavy steering